Helmut Lang Resort 2013

It seems only apt what with the torrential weather in London at the moment that brands begin to unleash their resort collections upon us, reminding us of the benefits of this sort of weather. Supple leather, smooth felts, warm wools... New editorials to read in the summer sun- its always the way with fashion- teasing us with previews we won't fully experience until months later. But hey it adheres to the suspicion that one always wants what one cannot have. One resort collection that stood out in particular was that of the New York label Helmut Lang, designed by duo Nicole and Michael Colovos. The label offered wonderfully zingy lemons and limes alongside peacock blues for spring, but their appeal lies in the mainstays of the dark and textured elements of winter dressing. This time they've veered slightly off-course from their sharply-cut, body-concious shapes with a boxier silhouette, a collection void of their trademark asymmetrical hemlines. Trousers glide loosely over the thigh, gently narrowing to the ankle. Boxy jackets are more reminiscent of easy-to-wear bikers as opposed to the classic Chanels. Their popular draping skills are still present in stylish silk seperates- some cut from digital prints inspired by the feather works of artist Kate McGwire. The pieces are sleek yet not severe, distinctive yet easy to wear- a balance encouraged by the designer's determination that "Clothes need to feel real, lived in"- as phrased by Alistair McKimm, who styled the 40-look collection. Its a collection with a subtle distinction from previous designs, without going into trend-driven territory. Helmut Lang is a brand appreciated for its lack of trends, as it is one of those brands that designs for a customer of style and substance, without falling into the dark pit of purely conceptual design. Its a thin tight rope to walk, but its one the team have clearly mastered.  For the full low-down on the collection, click here, and to see all the looks go to Style.com.

Designers Nicole and Michael Colovos, with stylist Alistair McKimm

The Inspiration: Sluice, 2009, by Kate McGwire