If the cobbled squares of Pitti this week are anything to judge by, checks are a big trend to follow. And if anyone was left doubting, Patrick Grant confirmed suspicions with an E. Tautz collection heavy on contemporary tartans, playful in their scales of line and unusual colour combinations. The collection's emphasis on quality of fabric and genius of cut makes this voguish take on the traditional less scary and more wearable. I wasn't so trusting of the volumous trousers that made appearances throughout, styled sloppily with all garments oversized- something I found just a tad too nonchalant for the label's usual precision.
This season the pressure was on Katie Eary to exceed expectations, having thrilled the fash-pack with her baroque fish prints for SS13. Another marine creature, a beautifully-blue lobster took centre stage for Autumn/Winter, inspired by 18th century paintings of banquets, which made sense alongside the rich fuschia florals and petal prints. Slicked hair, vampire fangs and metal chokers strengthened Eary's Dracula for Dinner vision, while laced skinny jeans, glittering shades, dazzling Air Jordans and an A$AP Rocky soundtrack brought it back down to earth.
Another out-of-this-world inspiration was seen at Christopher Kane's third menswear show, this time borrowing from his womenswear's inspiration, Frankenstein. Dracula dropped in too, as did the Creature from the Black Lagoon, appearing on sweatshirts, tees and velvet slippers. Jeans were narrow and slightly cropped, revealing tacky white socks inside those neat slippers. Leopard print dominated in a suitably spooky palette of greys and purples, broken by one or two flickers of red and blue. Lacking in any 'tough' accessories, I couldn't help feeling Kane's boy for Fall wouldn't say boo to a goose, let alone big aul Frankenstein.
Scary things also happened at the J.W.Anderson show, but this time it was the finished product, rather than the inspiration that beggared belief. Anderson is known for his interest in androgyny and gender-bending but the ruffled camel hair shorts, bandeau tops and frilled gloves in his A/W collection were leaps further than he had gone before. It was quite a clever collection really, using shocking pieces to gain attention, while also including wearable outerwear and graphic knits for the buyers, because everyone who's anyone is going to want something from that collection, right? London's fashion scene is applauded for its 'why not?' attitude, for creating for creativity's sake rather than purely for the sake of sales (not entirely true, London still charges bills, big bills). But before people start reasoning with 'Why not?', they should ask 'Why so?'
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