London Collections AW13: Day Three

And so the end has come to London Collections, with the third day offering more evidence to emerging trends and greater clarity to the who's who of British menswear. Take a look below for some highlights from yesterday's shows.

If the cobbled squares of Pitti this week are anything to judge by, checks are a big trend to follow. And if anyone was left doubting, Patrick Grant confirmed suspicions with an E. Tautz collection heavy on contemporary tartans, playful in their scales of line and unusual colour combinations. The collection's emphasis on quality of fabric and genius of cut makes this voguish take on the traditional less scary and more wearable. I wasn't so trusting of the volumous trousers that made appearances throughout, styled sloppily with all garments oversized- something I found just a tad too nonchalant for the label's usual precision. 

This season the pressure was on Katie Eary to exceed expectations, having thrilled the fash-pack with her baroque fish prints for SS13. Another marine creature, a beautifully-blue lobster took centre stage for Autumn/Winter, inspired by 18th century paintings of banquets, which made sense alongside the rich fuschia florals and petal prints. Slicked hair, vampire fangs and metal chokers strengthened Eary's Dracula for Dinner vision, while laced skinny jeans, glittering shades, dazzling Air Jordans and an A$AP Rocky soundtrack brought it back down to earth. 

Another out-of-this-world inspiration was seen at Christopher Kane's third menswear show, this time borrowing from his womenswear's inspiration, Frankenstein. Dracula dropped in too, as did the Creature from the Black Lagoon, appearing on sweatshirts, tees and velvet slippers. Jeans were narrow and slightly cropped, revealing tacky white socks inside those neat slippers. Leopard print dominated in a suitably spooky palette of greys and purples, broken by one or two flickers of red and blue. Lacking in any 'tough' accessories, I couldn't help feeling Kane's boy for Fall wouldn't say boo to a goose, let alone big aul Frankenstein. 

Scary things also happened at the J.W.Anderson show, but this time it was the finished product, rather than the inspiration that beggared belief. Anderson is known for his interest in androgyny and gender-bending but the ruffled camel hair shorts, bandeau tops and frilled gloves in his A/W collection were leaps further than he had gone before. It was quite a clever collection really, using shocking pieces to gain attention, while also including wearable outerwear and graphic knits for the buyers, because everyone who's anyone is going to want something from that collection, right? London's fashion scene is applauded for its 'why not?' attitude, for creating for creativity's sake rather than purely for the sake of sales (not entirely true, London still charges bills, big bills). But before people start reasoning with 'Why not?', they should ask 'Why so?'

London Fashion Week - September 2012

Today was the last day of London Fashion Week. There was a distinct air of weariness and everyone's faces seemed a little duller, their shoulders a little heavier. But the ending was bittersweet, because, for me at least, it had been five days spent in a dreamworld of fashion shows, glamorous locations and beautiful people, with an atmosphere of apprehension and nervous excitement.

I had some surreal moments - like spotting Scott Schuman outside Somerset House, where with probably not enough hesitation, I went up and introduced myself, gushing and telling him I was a massive fan, my grin widening stupidly as he shook my hand, him telling me it was nice to meet me. He was lovely, perhaps finding my embarrassing display of enthuasiasm endearing, who knows? I met him again at his book signing the next day at Harrods, where Garance also made an surprise appearance. The nicest part of meeting them both was seeing their lack of pretension, their sincere smiles and hearing their genuine words. The world of fashion is all too often seemingly dominated by fake people, living up to the industry's reputations of back-stabbers and devils wearing Prada (although more often than not it's Zara).

I spotted a few other recognisable industry figure heads and people I admire over the five days- Caroline Issa of Tank magazine, Alexandra Shulman, Anna della Russo, Caroline Sieber, the list could go on forever. I was lucky enough to see the shows of designers like Paul Smith, Todd Lynn, JJS Lee, Eudon Choi, JW Anderson... I sometimes felt like I was floating, all the time waiting for that lurching, jolting feeling you get when you awaken suddenly from a dream.

I'll have posts on the shows and street style up soon but in the meantime, take a look below

 for some snapshots from the frontline.

This trio were dedicated posers for the week and the street style paparazzi proved to be just as dedicated.

1883 magazine's Ginger Clark takes it all in at Somerset House.

When you're too far back to shoot the runway, adapt.

 

The simple invite from Paul Smith that managed to whip me into a frenzy.

The Sartorialist doing an impromptu interview on the street for 1883 magazine.

Paul Smith took to the runway for the finale as I looked on in awe.

Disco balls galore at the W hotel for the Fyodar Golan after party. 

I half-expected Borat to appear as I watched a "model" change into over three outfits for "street style" photos as her photographer rolled about on the cobblestones. And when one camera snaps, you can count on a hoard of photographers to gather in a nanosecond. 

 And finally, a shot of myself with Scott Schuman and Garance Doré, all smiles.