T by Alexander Wang Fall 2012 Campaign

Last week saw the drop of the Fall campaign from T by Alexander Wang. Directed by Daniel Jackson who shot the line's previous two campaigns, it features rapping girl-of-the-moment Azealia Banks bopping away to her single Van Vogue. Styled by long-time Wang collaborator Alistair McKimm, the video has that essence of cool the downtown label has become known for. Christopher Simmonds, creative director of Dazed & Confused magazine, took the role of art director for the campaign. Its another stellar campaign from the label, with the added achievement of making Banks look good and not seem irritating- a very rare occurrence. Check out the video below and see for yourself.

Stray Dogs

Today was 1883 magazine's first (of what will hopefully become monthly) event- Sunday Sessions. Held at London's Cargo in Shoreditch, there were some killer mojito's being drained and live music being played. A particular band that stood out was indie 5-piece, Stray Dogs. The band started as an acoustic duo in Tunbridge Wells in nearby Kent and after adding three more members, it has morphed into an electric music group. I've got to admit I was pleasantly surprised by their performance- energetic without trying too hard like many 'emerging' bands. Their style, too, was considered without moving into stereotypical 'I'm in a band' territory.

More importantly, their sound was that of the indie leaning I prefer when it comes to rock. Unpretentious lyrics, throaty vocals from singer Jack Mackey, vigorous drums and kinetic instrumentals made them an engaging listening, with London Burns probably my favourite song of their set. You can listen to their E.P. here or take a look below for the video for their single Amber.

Josh Goot Resort 2013

Just as I predicted, a heatwave has hit London just in time for the mayhem that is the Olympics, or should I say 'The Games'. Definitely a name created to incite thoughts of Katniss and Peeta, in an effort to distract Londoners into dreaming they're running from fireballs and the like- which could very well be metaphors for either throngs of tourists or the many current dangers of the wonderful public transport system. I have managed to spot some new window displays through the crowds of tourists, complete with padded jackets,  substantial winter coats and hefty leather boots. The very sight of winter collections in stores is enough to take the current heat from unbearable to, well, even more unbearable. Luckily, there is some welcome respite online from those tanned Australians who I'm sure would be far better equipped for the city's unusually obscene temperatures.

Josh Goot unveiled his Resort 2013 collection this week and it is yet another testament to the style designers down under have become known for in recent years. Zingy, zesty colours are plentiful in prints inspired by the Great Barrier Reef. Looking at his home's bounty of natural beauty, Goot cleverly distorted marine designs into abstract prints reminiscent of zebra and tiger skins. Another Aussie focus is the athletic body- constructed here with seaming and boning in a thin foam covered in silk, which brings back memories of Balenciaga's Spring 2008 collection. The racer-backs, streamlined silhouette, flared skirts and go-faster lines give a sporty freshness to the collection, without looking like many designers' homages to the Olympics. Bare faces and wet-look hair complete the easy-going yet polished Australian vibe that unfortunately may not work so well on many, other than those hot Bondi babes!

Hello I Must Be Going & Why Stop Now

After an abundance of fashion posts and a period of neglect, I thought it was time I got back on the blogwagon and hit you with not one, but two new movies.

First up is Hello I must Be Going, directed by actor-turned-director Todd Louiso and written by previous co-star and actress-turned-writer Sarah Koskoff. So far it sounds about as credible as a rapper-slash-actor, but the trailer below shows a promising indie romantic comedy- a winning formula as proven by the likes of 500 Days of Summer and Garden State. The movie opened The Sundance Film Festival and tells the story of a newly-divorced 35-year-old wallowing in self pity after moving back in with her parents. Played by Melanie Lynskey, who shot to fame with her breakthrough performance in Peter Jackson's Heavenly Creatures, she's desperate to bounce back with a beau her parents would approve of, yet falls for a teenager who also lives with his parents, albeit for different reasons. The cast also includes Blythe Danner- known as De Niro's other half in Meet the Fockers, as well as John Rubinstein (21 Grams) and Julie White (Transformers). A UK release date has yet to be announced.

Another new trailer this week is that of comedy Why Stop Now, starring Jesse Eisenberg of The Social Network and Zombieland fame. Jesse plays a college piano prodigy battling his drug addict mother- played by Melissa Leo who won an Oscar for her brilliant portrayal of a similiar role in The Fighter two years ago. During an effort to get her into rehab he becomes hostage to her drug dealer 'Sprinkle', played by Tracy Morgan- best known for his part in Tina Fey's 30 Rock. Ron Nyswaner- the writer of Philadelphia, shares screenplay and director responsibilities in a movie that is sure to be a comedic winner. With no sign of a UK release date, you're just gonna have to get your giggles from the trailer below for now.

Christian Dior Haute Couture - Fall 2012

The moment the fashion world had been waiting for arrived earlier today- the showing of Raf Simon's first collection for the House of Dior. The great master of minimalism at the helm of a couture house known for femininity, whose previous ruler, John Galliano, had created a world of fabulous frivolity and delectable excess. How could this work? The fashion industry has waited with bated breath, and many I feel, with a fearful apprehension. The venue was decorated wall to wall with millions of flowers of every kind- a little reminiscent of the scene at Simons' last collection for Jil Sander in which flowers stood in glass cases. Surely this was a sign of Simons taking over where he'd left off. And so it was- out came the looks one by one, garments of architectural beauty which Simons is known for. But construction was Christian Dior's baby too. Let us not forget his claim to fame- reinventing the female silhouette- cinching the waist, padding the bust and hips, and creating scandalously full skirts. Dior was known for his manipulation of form with fabric long before Galliano shaped his legacy into a theatrical world of embellishments and eccentricities.

The bar suit was the first to show, but in the 21st century it took the form of a slim trouser suit, worn with sharp black courts and a punchy pink lip. Trousers were everywhere- underneath bustier minidresses with busts of artfully folded fabric and hips of excess flare. It was all so simple, so beautiful. Pieces came in beaded fabrics too, but yellow seed beads on metallic bugle beads were modern, and the baroque patterns used were more clean than ornate. Every length, fabric, texture, seamline was explored- yet everything was the same. The collection was a vision of an artist, each model painted with the same brush, drawn with the same signature of the artiste that is Raf Simons. Watercolour prints that before may had flounced in layers of chiffon or organza took on smooth sculptural shapes in substantial silks, every element of construction was done with one less stitch or seam than many would had thought possible.

Raf Simons approached the formidable challenge of his first couture collection with respect, elegance, class, modernity, freshness, and something else I can't quite put my finger on. If Galliano presented us with a fictitious dreamworld of frivolous beauty, Simons gave us couture for the modern woman. Dior and Galliano may have made us dream, but Raf Simons made our dreams come true. What could be better than that?

To see the collection in its entirety, click here. 

Milan Mens Fashion Week

For the past few weeks the fashion world has been buzzing about menswear, with London and Milan done, and Paris Fashion Week ending today, the excitement has been yet another example of the rise of menswear. I think its no coincidence that its rise has been concurrent with the growing interest in and influence of street style. There is no shortage of photos of Italian men striding across cobbled streets, cigarettes precariously dangling from their lips, a flash of melton from an upturned collar, trousers turned up just-so, and no doubt some luxurious loafer or brogue donning their pavement-pounding feet. Its a testament to Italian style, and how European men (even more than European women) have that, to use a French phrase, 'je ne sais quoi'. Style is no doubt an attitude, something which Italian men have plenty of, and this combined with the Italian skill in and appreciation of tailoring, is what makes Milan Fashion Week so exciting. You can see all the menswear shows so far here, or take a look below for some of my picks from Milan.

    

John Varvatos cited Bowie as an inspiration this season, but his intent to add an elegance to the way men dress next spring made the fedoras and pinstripes more 1930's than 1970's. Varvatos' experimentation was focused on jacket closures this season, in asymmetry with various shapes and numbers of buttons- something that demonstrates how menswear is shaped by subtleties. Despite the focus on tailoring, loose trousers gave a relaxed vibe, and the abundance of accessories was characterful as opposed to pretentious. With a palette of black, white, khaki and grey with accents of red, it was a collection of reinvented classics that I'm sure many girls would love to borrow from their boys.

Giorgio Armani entitled his spring collection 'Sportsmanship'- perhaps a little surprising for a man known for his tailoring, yet at the same time apt for a designer renowned for having softened the male silhouette. Models looked at ease striding in trousers that were loose and baggy- a trend seen across many catwalks this season, something I can't say I welcome. However the jersey blazers, linen tailoring and easy knits and tees were a wonderful lesson in leisure dressing, and encapsulated the ease of Italian style. The pyjama-style lapelled shirts were the stand-out pieces for me- elegant yet easy-to-wear, which must surely be the perfect combination.

      

            

I'm usually not one for an abundance of colour, but this season Salvatore Ferragamo managed to make an overdose of brights irresistible. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti described the shades as 'vitamins' and one can almost feel the goodness as they look through the collection. Inspired by chilled out LA, the show featured every colour, from mint with primrose yellow, to cobalt paired with neon orange. Sneakers were worn with every look, a trend also seen at Valentino and countless other shows. Prints and zany knits that may otherwise have been almost frightening blended seamlessly into the collection- a lesson to be learned for those wanting to wear more colour. In contrast the final look was a perfectly tailored stark white suit, with just a flash of blue from the sneaker sole- perhaps a more wearable but no less tantalising taste of colour.

Another label assaulting the senses with all the shades of the rainbow was the tongue-in-cheek Moschino. Taking place in its source of inspiration, the collection was modelled through supermarket aisles, with Budweiser logos and detergent labels emblazoning sporty polo-shirts and tailored shorts, with Pop-Art prints that brought Warhol's Campbell soup prints to mind. From the 1960's to boating in the 1950's (perhaps not an intentional reference from the designer)- the collection also offered relaxed chinos in striped pastels, diagonal striped knits, straw trilbies, printed handkerchiefs and seersucker suits. When divided into separates, the collection surely offers some fun for the modern man's wardrobe, and as a whole it gave us something to smile at.

This season Valentino juxtaposed tradition and innovation in a throughly modern collection. 'Go-faster' stripes highlighted the seam lines of raglan sleeves in combinations of neoprene and leather in bomber jackets. Sharply tailored suits that went against the grain in Japanese denim were worn with sporty sneakers embellished with studs of rubber, as opposed to predictable metal. The silhouette was boxy on top- something that might not be so welcomed by the streamlined-inclined, however the crease-fronted tailored trousers were a welcome respite from other designers' support of the slouchy trouser trend. The camouflage trend saw no sign of dying here, although the heat-bond technique was innovatively different from its previous print incarnations.